Wade's SV650 Tips Page

NOTE: I collect 1966 motorcycle license plates. If you've got
one that you'd be willing to part with, drop me a line, eh?

This is info & tips from the SV list, and other places. It's all used with permission (when the item did not seem to be common knowledge), and is completely hearsay unless I've tried it and made a note to that effect below, ok? Use this information AT YOUR OWN RISK. So don't get your undies in a bunch if any of this is wrong, but please let me know. Thanks!

FORK CAPS
YZF600 (and maybe 750) fork caps from 1995 ($72 each) and '96-'00 ($105 each) are all 41mm and have the right thread to screw into the SV tubes. They are a little longer, so provide extra preload to begin with (unless you make new spacers) and provide externally adjustable preload. You *must* get and use the special stock washer that goes under these caps. S.Keener and Max McAllister (among others) provided this info.

ALUMINUM SUBFRAME
Saves weight (8-13 pounds depending on who you ask)
Available from several sources (http://www.brgracing.com/) among others
One person reported that Sharkskinz supersport tail won't fit over the stock subframe, but one other lister says that it will if you grind off the bungee-hooks on the stocker. YMMV

BODYWORK
(http://www.brgracing.com/) has a fairing stay for Sharkskinz that they say lets you keep the stock instrument cluster.

Sharkskinz TL bodywork fits and has these advantages over the SV design: (1) a larger tail section on which to apply numbers; (2) the engine cooling openings (yeah, a TL doesn't actually have them) are placed such that you can install frame protectors on the front engine mount without cutting holes in your body work TedJ101@aol.com

POWER
Bone stock peak power is at 9200 and drops nearly 6 hp at redline, 10,500. The rev limiter kicks in at 11,500. With a pipe and no air cleaner peak power is at 10,000 but there was no appreciable dropoff to redline. Randy Grein

Cutting open the airbox will make the bike much louder, and require going up 4 mainjet sizes and raising the Factory jet-kit needles one clip. Randy Grein

WHEELS
Wheels off 98 & 99 Katanas are rumored to be the same as SVs.

BATTERIES
One lister reported that he uses a cb3lb battery, but doesn't have a starter motor....a cb5lb (about 5 amp/hr) battery should suffice for others.

Source for little batteries:

One lister found this info on Yuasa Batteries:

P/N	Dry Wt.lbs	Length x Width x Height inches	CCA
YB14L-A2	7.6	5 5/16 x 3 1/2 x 6 9/16	190
YB5L-B	3.5	4 3/4 x 2 5/16 x 5 1/8	65
YB4L-B	2.8	4 3/4 x 2 3/4 x 6 5/8	56
12N7-3B	4.9	5 5/16 x 3 x 5 1/4	74
12N5.5-3B	4.3	5 5/16 x 2 3/8 x 5 1/8	60

SEAT PADS

Seat pads for canoes/kayaks are great for race-bikes also: It's black, beveled on the edges and is already in the "right" shape to stick on a superbike seat, comes in 2 pre-formed sizes and some rectangle sizes, costs about $14. North Shore Inc has a TON of choices in pre-formed seatpads: nsipadz.com/ and REI used to sell some that were preformed, but all I can find on their site now are the squares that you can cut to shape, look for Item 688668 on the REI website http://www.rei.com
Some of the closed cell foam floor mats available at Home Depot-type stores are about the same thickness as the HRC pad, have a smooth, glossy finish, which would promote the ability to slide from side to side, are quite cheap, and are easily worked with a razor blade.
HRC reportedly sells very nice seat pads which cost $100. I don't know much about them.
Street-n-Comp sells some stuff by the foot that works ok, but requires additional adhesive
Sticking your seat on your bodywork
If you don't use the preformed stuff, try this: cut the seat close to the shape you want with scissors or a utility knife. Don't worry about making rough edges. Run 80 grit sandpaper along the sides to form the desired shape. Knock off the sharp corner on the top edge to give it a nice finished look. Most pads benefit by using extra adhesive: Lay the newly shaped pad on your tailsection and trace an outline around it with chalk or something erasable. Then smear contact cement on the tailsection (inside the lines of your outline) and on the back side of the foam. Push the pieces together and wrap the seat tightly with Saran Wrap to hold the foam down tight, let sit overnight and you're ready to go.

Some SV650 Links:

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Last modified on 22AUG2001